Embrace the cold – a guide for choosing the right layers

Ruskovillan ulkoilukerraston paita nuotion ääressä

Up here in Northern Finland winter can be very harsh and unpredictable. Temperatures may drop down to -35°C at times. With the wrong dress code, this can very quickly turn into a painful experience leaving you in a disappointing situation and not enjoying your time in winter at all. Us people who live in the North, we cannot afford this. We must stay well prepared throughout the six long months of winter if we don’t want to suffer. Luckily there are ways to prevent freezing in the cold and that starts with the correct base layers. In this article, we'll explore why certain layers are indispensable for anyone venturing into the chilly Northern wilderness.


Text and photos: Carina Rambausek / Wild Awake Outdoors

 

Why clothes are not just clothes

I see a lot of different styles and ways how people dress during the winter through my work and life as a Nature Guide in Northern Finland. Most of the time the main problem I encounter is that people simply don’t know what a real winter feels like and therefore they lack understanding of what works and what doesn’t. The sensation of being in -20°C or less is simply not unattainable and so the instinct tells you: ‘I am cold, so put more clothes on’.

What I answer – well, yes and no.

More layers are not a wrong approach to avoid feeling cold, however when you are in a wintery environment and you are perhaps active it is not just a matter of how many layers, but what kind of layers you are wearing to stay warm over a longer period. And all of this starts with one crucial factor: The correct base layers.

Why base layers are the most important layers of all

Base layers are the first layers, the ones that are closest to your skin after your underwear. Its primary purpose is to regulate body temperature and to manage moisture by wicking sweat away from the body.

When I lead snowshoeing or skiing tours in winter I am constantly moving and stopping. One moment I feel totally overheated and the next minute I cool down quickly when taking a break. The problem here is mostly our sweat. As sweat evaporates from our skin, it takes heat away from the body. This cooling effect is amazing when you’re hot, but in winter it can cause your body temperature to drop very quickly.

So what happens when sweat accumulates in our clothing? If you wear materials that don’t wick away moisture well, it can stay damp and conduct heat away from the body, making you feel even colder. The only way to staying warm is keeping dry. Wet skin or damp clothing causes heat loss through conduction and draws heat away from the body faster than dry fabric would. So in short what we want are moisture-wicking fabrics that minimize evaporative cooling. And for me there is only one kind of material that can do this job best: itch-free merino wool!

Ruskovilla outdoor merino wool shirt by a campfire

Why quality matters

Wool is known for its incredible insulating properties. The unique structure of wool fibres trap air, creating a natural barrier that keeps your body warm even in the harshest conditions. Unlike synthetic materials, which can lose their insulating abilities when wet, wool retains warmth, even when damp. Additionally wool has also natural antimicrobial properties that help resist odors, which means less smelly clothes and less washing needed.

Merino wool can only be obtained from certain breeds of sheep. It is the finest and softest wool on the planet. Merino sheep produce super fine wool fibres that are finer than any other type of wool. Often when garments feel itchy, it’s because the fibre is coarse and ridged. The general rule of thumb is: The finer the micron, the softer the fibre. And the softer it feels on the skin. And that’s what we want.

Not only do I pay attention to the quality of my tours, but also to the clothing and equipment that I am using. I want stuff to last. And I want to be a role model, teaching and showing others that there are ways how to be responsible and have a focus on nature and a sustainable environment. I was lucky enough to find a small family business here in Finland that acts exactly according to my standards: Ruskovilla - where high-quality meets local production and sustainability. A nowadays rare find.

Respecting nature and the people

When Ruskovilla was founded in the early 1980s, one of their main principles was staying in balance with nature. ‘Clothes should be produced in a way that is least harmful to the well-being of both people and nature’, according to the founders.

Even the tiniest scrap of material is used that as little valuable raw material is left over as possible.
What you get for your purchase is organic certified raw, responsibly sourced material, durable and timeless products, domestic design and production and a friendly face behind the brand. I cannot express how much this means to me, knowing who I am dealing with and who I can rely on if for some reason something doesn’t work out. And that my pieces went through the hands of a small, dedicated team in Artjärvi, Southern Finland. How amazing is that?!

The products I use the most

Even though I go through a long winter every year, no winter is the same and it needs time to adapt to the cold season. But what I do know is what to wear when. Of course, every person feels cold differently, if you are a male or female and it depends where you are located. In Northern Finland we have a dry cold which means there is very little moisture in the air and that is often less chilling than a humid cold, which makes a big difference.

Since I am very active with different activities throughout winter, I want my clothing to be hard wearing and thicker, so it keeps me snug also in challenging conditions.

The following items are personal, honest recommendations which have tried and used in different situations. All I can say is, the feel of these products is incredible. Well thought through, extremely soft and durable.

Ruskovilla outdoor shirt, merino wool

1. My all-time favourite: The outdoor shirt in 100% organic merino wool

I have figured that I don’t just use this merino wool shirt when I am skiing, but as a casual shirt as well once it gets colder. It looks great, feels super soft and like a second skin and I hardly want to take it off as it regulates my body temperature so perfectly. One of my favourite features is the longer back which adds additional protection and keeps the outdoor shirt better in place. The high collar is so well made that it doesn’t feel annoying at all when zipped up and folded over. And the thumbholes are a great bonus as well.

After months of wearing this shirt and really putting it to the test I cannot see any wear marks or pilling whatsoever. I recommend to go for the smaller size if you are a woman, as it is a unisex model.

Ruskovilla outdoor merino wool underpants, black

2. Pair it with: The outdoor trousers in 100% organic merino wool

To complete the base layer look we need bottoms. Also here Ruskovilla has created the most comfortable pair of (unisex) merino wool long johns that I ever used. I mean it.

The merino trousers come in a knit weight of 210 g/m² (same as the Outdoor Shirt). I start wearing those when the real winter kicks in or I go on longer overnight tours as they are slightly thicker.
What I like about these pants is the double-layer from ankles to knees and from the crotch up to the waist, protecting the areas that can cold easily. This has changed so much for me that I don’t always have to wear a second pair of bottoms underneath. What’s great as well is the adjustable waistband.

My tip is to get them in the size that fit snug and comfortable when trying on. I find that the pants barely get wider over time.

Ruskovilla black merino wool shorts, unisex

3. A game changer: Merino shorts!

My weakest spots when I am exposed to challenging conditions are the sides of my thighs and my buttocks. Wind can impact that area a lot, but the body also prioritizes keeping vital organs warm, which leads to less blood flow in certain areas. In any case, I am glad I found a solution that makes all the difference to me: Merino shorts! This is the trick I recommend a lot and has been a game changer especially for women. The unisex shorts from Ruskovilla are again made from 100% organic, merino wool with a knit weight of 210 g/m² and are produced in Finland and feel just amazing on the skin. No itchiness guaranteed.

I wear the shorts either by itself in the beginning of winter or underneath my base layer for additional warmth. I noticed that the shorts get a little looser after some time, so I recommend going for a smaller size. But if you prefer to wear the shorts on top of your base layer, go for a bigger size.

Ruskovilla women's wool fleece jacket, mossThe wool fleece is made of 100% organic merino wool. The jacket has handy pockets, also inside. The last picture also features a merino wool snood.

4. Goes on top of everything: Women’s wool fleece jacket

The wool fleece jacket is not classified as base layer, but because it is so versatile and comfortable that it has become an all-year round favourite for me.

I winter I wear the merino wool jacket over my base layer and on warmer days just over a shirt for example. The design is simple and timeless which is great so I can combine the jacket with a pair of jeans or my usual outdoor look. And with a knit weight of 300 g/m², it keeps you toasty. What I appreciate a lot is the two-way zipper and zippered pockets. Very practical. Wool doesn’t require frequent washing, which makes the product even more attractive in my opinion. I wouldn’t wear the jacket when I am highly active as it is not intended for hard wearing activities.

Ruskovilla wool fleece jacket, moss

5. Wear it indoors or outdoors: Women’s wool fleece pants

The wool fleece pants is a product I was curious about, but not sure if I would need or use them much. They seem too warm for me to wear around the house and not the kind of garment I would wear when I go outside in winter. Well, now I am glad I have them as I use them frequently. They are as warm and soft as the fleece jacket, again made from 100% organic merino wool. Yet again here you can really feel the body temperature regulating properties of merino wool. It warms you when cold and cools you when warm. I find these pants incredibly comfortable to wear indoors when I am at home. Not too warm at all.

And they just fit so nicely. I recommend going for the smaller size as the material stretches a bit over time. The waistband is adjustable in case you need to tighten it up. I wear the fleece pants when I go for an easy walk or in the garden in dry conditions, too, but for anything more demanding I would use more hardwearing materials as my outer layer and not these pants.

Ruskovilla merino wool outdoor undershirt

Last but not least

Whether you’re cross-country skiing, ice fishing, hiking, at work or simply enjoying a day at home, Ruskovilla’s great selection of wool layers are versatile and offer an option for many different situations to stay dry, warm and comfortable.


Investing in quality wool base layers that you can rely on, that have been produced locally with high-quality and responsible sourced, organic material makes all the difference to me.

So, whether you’re off to your next winter holiday or cozying up by the fire after a day outdoors, I am sure you are now ready to embrace the cold!

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